Rachael's Fabrics

Sewing Terms.

M-Z

Microfiber: This fabric is the finest-quality polyester at 200 threads per inch and comes in different weights.
Nap: There are a few fabrics that have a direction to the surface texture and this is called the nap. These fabrics will change the way they look depending on which way you hold them. 
Notches: Notches are crossmarks transferred from seamline to edge of seam allowance, using a tool called a notcher. 
Outline: The process of drawing a line along the edge of the sloper or draft without seam allowances.
Pick-up: The area between the stitched lines in darting (also called the underlay).
Pin Tucks: Narrow rows of stitching that create a raised ridge of fabric. This is a classic heirloom technique seen in many antique gowns especially christening gowns from the 18th and 19th century. 
Polyester Silky: Very enticing fabric but difficult to get seams that don't pucker.
Prepleated fabric: Great fabric for close-fitting tops, tube skirts, and full pants with elasticized waists.
Rayon: This fabric works well in most styles and is flattering to the body. It is very easy to sew with. 
Rayon Crepe: A fabric that drapes beautifully, eases well, but it is also prone to wrinkles. This fabric is suitable for full blouses, full skirts, full pants and jackets.
Ripstop: This is a lightweight wind-resistant nylon. It is suitable for jackets, ponchos and wind pants. 
Rotary Cutter: This tool is a round razor-sharp cutter which is rolled along to cut multiple layers of fabric at a time. Use with a special mat for protecting the cutting surface.
Rolled Hem: Fold raw edge under 1/4 inch hem and then 1/4 inch again, enclosing the raw edge in the process. Topstitch to hold hem.
Satin Stitch: A dense zigzag stitch when done on the machine and can be done when sewing by hand as well. If done with good-quality thread the stitch creates a shiny, satiny appearance when all the stitches lie close together.
Seam Allowance: This refers to the amount of fabric between the cut edge and the seam. Unless otherwise specified, most garment patterns require a 5/8 inch seam throughout the garment.
Sequins: Decorations of shiny quality used on fabrics. The sequins need to be pulled out of the seam allowances.
Selvage: When a length of fabric is woven and printed or dyed at the factory it has two finished lengthwise edges. These edges are usually a little stiffer and firmer than the crosswise cut edge of the fabric and these edges will not ravel. When fabric is cut at the fabric store it is cut from selvage to selvage.
Separating zipper: A zipper which completely separates, such as for a jacket or sweater. The bottom of the zipper has metal tabs for starting the pull. 
Silk Charmeuse: A luxurious, supple silk. It is great for blouses and lingerie. The front is shiny and the back is dull. 
Silk Chiffon: Not recommended for beginners, because of its weight. It is perfect for pants, loose tops and flowing dresses.
Silk crepe de Chine: This fabric is available in three weights: 
a) 2-ply, the most common
b) 3-ply, the favorite of top-notch designers 
c) 4-ply, usually found in tailored pants and jackets. 
Silk Dupion: This is a crisp fabric with irregular slubs in the yarn. 
Silk Gazar: For the 'crisp' look.
Silk Noil: More commonly called raw silk. It has a dull finish, and has a tendency to ravel.
Silk Tussah: This has a nubby appearance. It is made from uncultivated silk worms. 
Sizing: Measurements of body used as guide for cutting garments to fit a variety of body types.
Stabilizer: Some stitches will pucker on fabric if not stabilized while stitching. A stabilizer provides an extra layer to add body and stiffness while stitching. It eliminates shifting and sliding of fabrics when doing applique, buttonholes, embroidery, and many other types of stitching. Many different things can be used as a stabilizer, from spray starch to typing or tissue paper, and there are products in the sewing market to stabilize your stitching.
Staystitching: This is a line of machine stitches usually shown on the first part of the pattern instructions. This stitching will stabilize the curves and provide a guideline for clipping and joining the curved edge to other curved edges, as well as prevent stretching.
"Stitch In The Ditch": A method of understitching. Press seam allowances to one side and top stitch as close to the seam as you can to hold the seam allowance down and cause the piece of fabric to stay folded under. 
Tencel: A fabric made from wood pulp and produced with a recyclable non-toxic dissolving agent. Tencel is soft and drapey and often combined with other fibers in both knits and wovens. It is wonderful to wear and it doesn't wrinkle. 
Tension: The word used to describe how sewing machine is or is not forming its stitches. It refers to the amount of drag or tautness exerted on the needle and the bobbin thread as they move through the sewing machine.
Top Stitch: A row of stitching, visible on the finished product. Can be functional or decorative. 
Tracing: tracing is the process of transferring pattern lines, using a tracing wheel, onto another sheet of paper.
Tracing Wheel: A tool for marking fabric when the pattern is still on the fabric during the cutting phase. It allows you to use a dressmaker's carbon paper and transfer markings to the fabric, such as darts. It has a dull serrated edge that leaves small dots on the fabric to indicate stitching lines. 
Trueing: the process of connecting all points on a pattern and checking for accuracy of measurements, dartlines, seamlines, crossmarks, shape of seamlines and more.
Underlay: The area between the stitched lines in darting (also called the pick-up).
Vinyl: Vinyl shines like patent leather but it doesn't breathe. Vinyl is suitable for upholstery projects, handbags, straight skirts, narrow pants, vests and jean jacket trim.

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